Punch are quite possibly the most exciting boutique Yarra producer. They make some wicked wines well worthy of more recognition. Lance’s Vineyard, to give you an idea, is near Christmas Hills, and is one of the oldest of the Yarra Valley. In short, it’s a bloody good spot to grow grapes. This chardy was whole bunch pressed directly into barrel, where it spent months resting on its lees and building all that toasty, rich complexity. This is not a showy wine, elegantly understated just like its maker. It calmly reveals its hand, holding all aces. It’s probably got a few more up it’s sleeve for the coming years, too. Oh, and production numbers are remarkably low, so don’t delay.