Deep, dark ripe fruit dazzles to begin, but then the nuance of age makes itself known, adding another element to this fantastic wine. A swarm of brambly, developed fruit is framed by punchy tannin and well integrated acidity. Seven years cellar time has allowed some fruit leather and umami to enter the flavour profile, but they're only there as a suggestion of what this wine might do over the next decade - right now its all about the fruit - luscious and complex and packing a genuine, no-holds-barred bit of punch. Chocolate, tobacco, pepper, spice – everything nice. Personally I'm torn: I would love to see what this wine looks like in the back half of the 2030s, but I know I'll drink my modest allocation by the end of the month.