Luxurious on the palate. Smooth and full, it layers fruit upon fruit upon fruit. Raspberry, strawberry, black cherry, cassis, currants - the fresh-to-slightly-over-ripe fruit profile is immense. Then comes the savoury; spice and cedar mingle with tobacco and a dried leaf potpourri. This is classically French in its earthiness and the little waft of decay, but the fruit almost feels like a new world wine - so let's split the difference and say it's the best of both worlds, because it truly is.