There is an element of grandiosity stitched into the wines of Chateau Bourdieu, a sprawling vineyard on the banks of the Gironde in Bordeaux. The level of complexity that makes its way into each bottle is simply stunning. Every mouthful, every roll or swish of the glass brings a new layer, a new edge, a new compartment to be opened and discovered. What is immediately apparent is the abundance and the quality of the fruit. Ripe plum, dark cherry, blackcurrant, tart raspberry. That fruit is wrapped in a savoury pouch of leather, cedar, capsicum, blackcurrant leaf, and - classic for Bordeaux - dried tobacco. We reckon this is a ‘drink a few, save a few’ type wine. Even though it looks great now (which is a criminal understatement), it’s going to look oh-so-special with a decade of quiet contemplation under its belt.