Beautifully blue fruited despite the not-insignificant time in cellar. It has such richness and deep, brooding, plummy weight. A distinctly impressive wine that is in perfect shape – I suspect we may have intersected it at the height of its abilities, though it will surely stay there for some time. Beyond the dense fruit profile there's smoke, spice, bristly acid, wet earth, umami, terracotta minerality, grassy savoury notes, cedar and pine – entirely too much going on to capture in one thought. Buy it now, but be sure to save a bottle for when the 'rellies come by for Christmas lunch (or for when they leave, depending on how much you like your 'rellies).