So we’re at the foot of Mt Etna. The vines are over 40 years old. The grapes are nerello mascalese for the most part, with “small batches of other local grape varieties”. The wine’s aromatic and earthy, peppery but fine and deep. Raspberry and citrus with black tea and bergamot, too. Juicy and elegant but savoury. For Barolo lovers who want something with even more fragrance and a lot lighter, but still drying and complex and most importantly - impeccably poised.